Wednesday, 23 January This is what I always thought the Antarctic summer should be like: the sun is shining out of a blue sky, the unfathomable water has a beautiful blue colour, and we are surrounded by icebergs displaying a high variety of shapes. So I am standing on the work deck at 7 o’clock in the morning, waiting for my turn. The CTD with 24 water bottles, each closed at a different depth all the way down to the seafloor which here lies more than 5,000 m below the surface, is a sampling device in high demand among oceanographers and biologists. I personally take samp...

Monday, 21 January The mood on the ship is changing. In the stairwell there are sheets of paper on the walls with a red page-size exclamation mark which are very familiar to those who have been on Polarstern before. They announce deadlines for packing and delivering the packing and freight lists. Oh, yes, the packing lists, now where did I put them... After 54 days at sea, some realities of life have vanished into the background as we live in our own small world, despite emails and daily news from the internet. The gods of the weather have been kind to us, the Polarstern is swaying very ge...

Date: 23 January 2008 Altitude: Close to sea level Maximum and Minimum Temperatures: - 2 degrees C (McMurdo) & - 35 degrees C (South Pole) We had a 3 hours comfortable flight from South Pole to McMurdo this morning. We were picked up by a bus at the airfield that is located on the sea ice some 10 km from the US McMurdo Station. When we arrived at McMurdo Station we received a brief from the NSF Representative and had an interesting guided tour to Scott’s hut. It feels like having been arrived in a big city when we suddenly are surrounded by more than 1000 persons. - Jan-Gunnar ...

Date: 23 January 2008 Altitude: Close to sea level Maximum and Minimum Temperatures: - 2 degrees C (McMurdo) & - 35 degrees C (South Pole) We had a 3 hours comfortable flight from South Pole to McMurdo this morning. We were picked up by a bus at the airfield that is located on the sea ice some 10 km from the US McMurdo Station. When we arrived at McMurdo Station we received a brief from the NSF Representative and had an interesting guided tour to Scott’s hut. It feels like having been arrived in a big city when we suddenly are surrounded by more than 1000 persons. - Jan-Gunnar ...

Between me and the seafloor there is about 4,000 m of water. A barrier for scientists who want to understand the biology of the water column all the way down to the deep-sea floor, harder and harder to penetrate with increasing depth. Nevertheless, the beginnings of deep-sea research are already a century behind us. The foundation of deep-sea investigations was laid by the Challenger Expedition and the German Deep-sea Expedition. My great-great grandfather Franz Eilhard Schulze was involved in the analysis of these expeditions. He worked on the sponge fauna of the deep sea worldwide. When presenting results from her projects, Dorte Janussen, the sponge expert for this voyage, often refers to his work which is still an important reference for her work today. It is nice to see...

Today was –again- a great day for me on board Polarstern. It started in a bit of shock, as Bram, doing the early morning shift in counts of birds and mammals on top of the ship, woke me up by calling me via the stand-by mariphone in my cabin. He excitedly reported seeing “Brown Spots” which must sound weird and requires some explanation. Since my first marine science cruise on Polarstern, almost 20 years ago in 1988, I have been seeing occasional mysterious ‘brown spots’ while conducting the bird and mammal counts. They measure from several meters up to maybe a 100m in diameter. They are not easy to see if you’re not constantly on the lookout. Only with variable success I have been able to convince other people that indeed ‘something’ was there in the water. In my view, th...

My day started quite unspectacularly. After my morning routine of looking briefly into my computer files, I went to breakfast, expecting nothing special. I had just sat down when Uli, the expedition leader, approached me and asked whether I possibly wanted to join the first helicopter flight, starting at 9 a.m., and help the colleagues of IMARES from Wageningen, the Netherlands, with their top predator counts. Well, what was I going to say. Of course I was very happy and I immediately agreed. Originally I had planned to sort the last part of the sample from Maud Rise in the lab, but the sample is fixed well in alcohol and could wait. I did not have much time, 15 minutes had to be enough to recharge the camera battery, then I rushed to the helicopter hangar and wriggled mysel...

While the Polarstern did her utmost best to break through the pack ice towards the shelf, most scientists finished their practical station work and had the first look at the preliminary results. As member of the benthology team I work on the smallest, though surprisingly amazing members of the multicellular benthos, the Nematoda. These wormlike creatures are so numerously present and show such a great variability that they simply have to fulfil an important role down there. Because they are so small you need a microscope with high magnification to be able to identify them. Therefore and also because I plan to do some biochemical analyses on the nematodes found in the deep-sea sediments, my preliminary results on board would be limited to mentioning that the sampling we did by means of the...

For about two weeks the Polarstern had been fighting against a forbidding fortress of ice, and day after day there seemed to be very little progress. The scientists on board of this research icebreaker were less than happy. Some stations had already been given up when we were called to the Atka Bay for the second time. On Monday afternoon, it still looked like our goal was still very far in the distance. In the middle of the night from Monday to Tuesday, around 2 a.m. the birthday parties of two scientists and a member of the helikopter crew were about to wind down. Suddenly, out of the blue, the happy news reached the “Zillertal”, the ship’s bar, that the Polarstern had reached the shelf ice edge. I could hardly believe it! After a bit of hesitating, I put on my Po...

It is early in the morning, the aroma of my second cup of after-breakfast coffee is pleasantly wafting through the room. Next door in the mess room the clatter of dishes is telling stories of busy work, and when drawers are opened, the familiar sound of the closing mechanism can be heard that keeps them from springing open in heavy seas. Heavy seas- that is something we have not had in a long time. My photographs from the transit through the roaring forties, which sure did live up to their name back then, look like they are from a different life. Outside ice and calm, deep blue water are shimmering in the clear sunshine of the Polar summer. So what is going on, anyway? Many stories are offered. “We are going around in circles.” “What, is this just ot do something- anyt...